This website is still under construction.

I have 2 options:


I started with some ideas:


Casting my Head

This is first part and also part which I have no way to do myself.
It is done in 3 steps:
  1. Preparations
    • Bald Cap to hide hair
    • Shaving my beard
    • Waxing eyebrows
      (because I want to keep them, can also be used for beard if short enough)
    • Securing breathing
      2 options:
      1. Straw in mouth
        (bigger hole or multiple of them)
      2. Straws in nose
        (should be secured in place to not fall out)
    • Keeping clothes safe
      (plastic bag with hole only for head / neck)
  2. Soft cast
    • Often silicon
    • For details
      (not that they really matter for this)
  3. Hard cast
    • Often plaster dressings (or bandages soaked by gypsum)
    • As solid box
      (keeping the shape, actual box is used for small casts)
After application of soft and hard layers and letting it dry, both layers must be cut in half to take them off. This can be made easier by splitting the hard layer when laying them (back half first to decrease time with limited breathing). To keep frond and back halves separated, you can use transparent wrapping foil. You can find inspiration here. Finished form (when taken off the head) should be left few hours to dry. For casting from it, you must keep both halves tightly together and fill it inside with your desired material. You can make it hollow but I do not recommend it because that means you must keep shaking (rotating around all axes) it around for even layer (which may take some time). Before casting, you should lubricate the inside (like when baking). It can also serve as separating layer to cast silicon even when the inner side of the form is silicon (you should read more about this to not break your form). When using gypsum, remember to start with water and add powder slowly. Not in reverse order.

Creating Base of Head

Having the mold of your head, you can start modelling the snout from clay. Keep in mind that there will be fur added on the shape (to not have the snout too big). I want mine to cover my ears - when someone touches side of my head, they should not feel my ears. They may still be able to feel edge of the solid part which can be fixed by making the edge slowly fading or making it around whole head with the back half made from different (flexible) material (which I would recommend you with the 1st option too). You should also think how to add a nose (on top of the muzzle). From my point of view, there are 2 options:
  1. Make space for it and cast it later
  2. Make it part of whole snout skeleton
I decided to use the 2nd option but it depends on materials which you will use and result you want. I want to use Thermoplastic polyurethane which is hard casting material. That means the nose will be hard as well. To make it look like nose, you can paint it but it will still feel solid on touch. This can be solved by using 1st option from above. Instead of casting, I decided to paint the clay model with Thermoplastic polyurethane in layers. It will take more time (I will have to return to it every ? hours) but has advantage of fit because this way it layers out from face but with casting, it layers towards face making it slightly smaller (and I will not have to solve the problem to make it hollow).


Some Fursuit Makers do only bottom half of teeth without anyone ever noticing (except those who wear their fursuits, I am referencing to WMW66 Costumes). I want both upper and lower teeth which will take some space (and weight) in the snout (leaving no space for small fan). Teeth itself can be done from hard material (like gypsum) or (better) something bendable (like silicone) which should not hurt anyone on bite (at least not penetrate their skin) and not break on hit.

Adding Fur

At first, you need to know direction of fur. I would recommend you to look at some dogs (like Czechoslovakian Wolfdog) to get it right. Before rushing to sewing the fur, you may want to use a trick many Fursuit Makers do - prepare those pieces from paper. It will remove all possible folds and allow you to use as minimum of fur as possible (and also keeps the right direction of fur). Remember to leave some space for sews (where needed, you can still only glue it to the head instead of sewing). To attach the fur on the snout + face (Thermoplastic polyurethane) you can use glue. You should not need to replace it for few years and when you do, it may still be easier to recreate it - use old mold if you kept it (you could do multiple bases for selling them).

Head Zipper

To put it on, you will need a zipper because most furs do not stretch. It does not matter where - on side, back or somewhere in between. Whatever position you choose, you may want to hide the zipper. It can be done in 4 (possibly more) different ways:
  1. Small zipper
    Using small zipper with only few millimeters between both edges of fur.
    Disadvantage is getting your fur stuck in the zipper almost every time.
  2. Leaving overlap
    This means you will leave some (fur) fabric to overlap the zipper.
    The overlap may be long from one side or shorter from both sides (should be better).
  3. Leaving overlap with Velcro
    Same as previous but this time you add Velcro on the overlap. Problem with this is that it may catch some fur and make it look worse and worse.
    This is most used option (sometimes with snap fasteners (studs) ).
  4. Flat plastic strip
    This mechanism uses the fact that the head is tight fit because it is using it to cover the zipper.
    Use flexible plastic strip of same length as the zipper. The fur may be glued to it. You can glue the zipper too but it may be better to sew it to the strip (you will need to drill small holes for needle). The overlap should be half (or less) from total width of the strip.
    You may have problems with zipping this because it will leave almost no space for your fingers.

Finishing Fur

You may want to color your fur (using airbrush) but before you do that, you need to trim the fur. Shortest fur should be on (top of) muzzle. Again, I recommend you to take a look at dogs (wolf-like dogs like Czechoslovakian Wolfdog) for best result. I will also want long(-er) hair for myself. Longer then can be done using faux fur fabric. For that, I have 3 options:
  1. Hair Extensions
    Some people use those to make their hair longer. It is done by merging your own hair with artificial (bought) hair and hiding it under layer of their hair (to hide the connecting).
  2. Hair Wig
    Faux Fur is nothing more then hair wig with shorter length and bigger density (sometimes with 2nd (shorter) layer of fluff (to hide the fabric behind it) ).
  3. Punching Hair
    This is something in between. We will still use Faux Fur but add long(-er) hair to it.
    To do so, we will use similar principle to one used for (high quality) masks to add (not only) hair. They penetrate the surface with special tool and when they take it out, it leave hair in the hole (which closes itself).
    We do not have advantage of self-sealing material but we can bend the hair in half and sew it to the fabric (when there is pressure on one half, there should be similar pressure on the other half which will keep it in place).
Airbrush should be easy to do. Just keep in mind that you do not want the color in your eyes or respiratory system or on your clothes. Use goggles, respirator, gloves and clothes which you don't mind getting colored (I would recommend you using those for room painters). You should do it outside (if you have right temperature and minimum wind) or inside where you will not sleep and is easy to air. You will probably need to use (news-)paper to keep your table from getting the color too (which may still happen thanks to wind). The color should be slightly different for each and every part of fur to look natural. Look at hair of people around - they are different shades of brown, white, red and even black.